This really is a big island...

Time to head to the eastern side of the island. We got one last hit of Kona coffee and ventured north and east to Hilo, the capital of the Big Island. We made a passion fruit smoothie pit stop in Honokaa. In this quaint town, sandwiched between the only major highway and the Pacific, we found the quintessential local coffee shop, complete with laptop toting millennials. The local fruit smoothie however, was spectacular. After a drive across some of the most striking valleys I’ve ever seen, we pulled into Hilo. Hilo is an old working town. Normally, I like this. But Hilo just didn’t sit well with me. Maybe it was the misused ocean front area, wide parking lots or strangle hollow sensation I got from the town, but it just didn’t ring my bell. We soon got out of downtown and found a delightful bento café in an pseudo industrial like area. The food made up for the sour taste Hilo gave me.

Volcano lava at night.

Since Hilo didn’t offer much reason to hang around, we headed off to our hotel for the next 4 nights, the Volcano Inn, located in (you guessed it!) Volcano. Volcano is a very small town (read 1 main street and about 5 blocks of homes) located adjacent the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Visiting this park was our primary reason for our Big Island adventure. We wasted little time checking into our basics room, grabbing dinner (at a fantastic Thai food restaurant in Volcano) and heading to the park at sunset.

The park is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. It includes observatories, research facilities, a military facility and a hotel. With lava oozing out of the Kilauea Volcano, we were in for a treat after

Kilauea Volcano lava at sunset.

sunset. The glow of the lava in the darkness is just incredible. Shortly after sunset, most of the rest of the visitors left the chilly park. With total darkness and dead quiet, it was a tremendous experience. Volcano is fairly cool all day long due to its elevation, perfect for using the outdoor hot tub at our Inn.

Northward we go!

Time for a trip north. We traveled the busy Hwy 19 north of Kona to the Pololu Valley area. We started off with a moderate hike down to the black sand beach in the Pololu Valley. One of the great joys of getting a very early start is that there are very few people around and those that are around are usually quite pleasant. Our trip down to the beach was no exception. The older couples on the same hike at this time were very interesting and nice. One couple was from Alabama. I can’t imagine going back to Alabama but hey everyone has their thing I guess.

The hike was pretty short and steep but not dangerous, unless you slipped and went over the steep cliff. Once at the beach below, we enjoyed the waves hitting the numerous rocks for a while and decided to keep going along the coast. Because of the cliff, we would need to climb up and through the thick bush. We went about a quarter mile and decided that walking through the thick vegetation was unpleasant enough to turn us around. Unfortunately, we had to go back up the steep trail. We made it out just as many others were showing up. Success!

After drinking about 4 bottles of water each (it is extremely hot and humid, even at 9am!), we headed off toward Waimea. We enjoyed the drive through the plantations and farms, including a trip past the massive Parker Plantation and arrived at Waimea in time for lunch. Naturally, we landed at the local craft brewery, Big Island Brewhouse. Good beers and good food in a humble environment. Perfection.

We then decided to give snorkeling another try. We headed for the western beaches: Hapuna Beach and Beach 69. The area north of Kona is pretty sparse and largely controlled by resorts. It felt elitist and very odd. Nevertheless, we found two very enjoyable beaches, gorgeous actually, but bad snorkeling conditions. The waves were just too much and there was no visibility at all. The swimming was pleasant at least. It began to rain fairly hard while I was in the water and it was pleasant actually to swim while it was raining. We headed back to Kona for a relaxing evening and sunset drink at the venerable Huggo’s on the rocks. Yes, it’s cheesy. Yes, it’s overpriced. Yes, the live music was pitiful. But the jumbo mai tai and flatscreen tv with Thursday night football were just right. We decided to give a TK Noodle House a try for dinner. That was good call. We both enjoyed unique and delicious Japanese noodle bowls for dinner. The Taro Bubble Tea was a treat as well.  It was great way to end our time on the west side of the island.

Put Your Explorer Hat On

Time to explore the area south of Kona – Captain Cook, Holualoa and in between. Driving HI Route 11 is pleasant for a while, but the constant stopping does get old fast. Nonetheless, we made it to Captain Cook after a coffee stop by Green Flash Coffee for some delicious Kona coffee. Captain Cook is a modest town along the coast. Supposedly, it is nearby that Captain Cook was killed. We decided to check out a hike along the coast (which is very rugged here) to enjoy the views and see the spot of his death. No luck. Despite a guidebook with very strange instructions (“look for telephone pole #4 and go left…”), we couldn’t make out the trail or a clear path through the very thick vegetation. Between the rain and the very spooky locals, we bailed on the trail and decided to find better and safer activities. 

The seas were too rough for good snorkeling.

We continued further on Rt 11 for a stop for more coffee and fresh baked goods at Kona Mill coffee. Good stuff. I noticed a road sign for the Painted Church with an arrow pointed down the hill toward the coast. So off we went. The church was cute with a beautifully painted interior. Built by a Belgian Catholic in 1899, St. Benedicts Roman Catholic church has stood the test of time against salty ocean winds. The ocean views were as stunning as the painting. After a stop at the church, we continued down the hill toward the coast. We found small, winding roads enclosed with lush fruit trees and macadamia nuts trees. I felt the need to pick a papaya and bananas from trees along the roadside.

But the surfers enjoyed the high wave action. I love the little kid surfer.

We did some more random wandering up and down this portion of the coast and finally decided that the small town of Holualoa was our best bet for lunch. We were correct. Lunch at the quaint Holualoa Café offered sandwiches made with local meats and veggies. This was definitely one of the best lunches of the whole trip. The town was adorable too – wonderfully lacking the normal tourist junk shops.

We spent the remainder of the afternoon hunting, to no avail, for good snorkeling. The water was just too rough for good snorkeling at this time. But we found some secluded beaches, strange libertarian locals and desolate roads with nice mountain views. We made it back to Kona for sunset. We enjoyed the sunset as the surfers enjoyed the huge waves.

Welcome to the BIIIIGGG Island!

Arrival Kona Airport. Hot and super sunny with some menacing rain clouds off to the east. They don’t call it the Big Island for nuthin! That is one big ass island. Yes, you hear that the big island is the size of all of the other major Hawaiian islands put together but once you see it by air (and then later drive the whole thing) you get a real appreciation for the massive size. And yes, thanks to an ever active volcano, it continues to grow larger each day.

The big Island is different from the other islands. Due to its very low population count, it is sparse. Add a lot of lava flow, 5 volcanoes, the highest peak on the islands and lots of farmland and you understand why it feels so vast.

We start our vacation in Kona, excited to get into the water and into the heartbeat of the Big Island. Kona is definitely touristy but this works into our favor. We check into the Kona King Kamehameha Hotel, right on the ocean and quickly head out to seek out snorkel gear. We get our gear and get into the water. Fish! There weren’t as many fish as we saw in Maui but it’s fun anyway. We snorkel for about 90 mins and decide to dry off and see what else surrounds us.

We quickly decide that the massive hill (er..mountain) that looms over Kona is the most intriguing so we venture up the massive hill. We quickly discover a stunning view of Kona and the ocean below as well as a different environment on the hill. We notice farms and traditional residential communities. Feeling a coffee craving (Kona does have the premier coffee after all) and David notes that Mountain Thunder

Our first chicken sighting at Mountain Thunder Coffee

Coffee facility is nearby. We weren’t really intending to take the tour of the facility but when a very engaging gentleman greeted us as we approached and stated that he saw us pull up and held the last tour of the day for us, well we couldn’t decline now could we? So we took the tour and were very happy that we did. I learned a lot about the caffeinated drink that I can’t live a day without. Turns out coffee grows on trees and not all coffee beans are equal. Size and quality are very important. Thunder Mountain sorts and roasts an incredible amount of the stuff each day. The facility was filled with the aroma of the roasting beans and the noise of the sorting machines. We enjoyed free samples of brewed coffee, chocolate covered beans and macadamia nuts covered in coffee chocolate. A perfect afternoon treat.

The foreboding rain clouds held off the rest of the afternoon and we were treated to a wonderful sunset from the hills. Next stop, Kona Brewing. I had been looking forward to Kona Brewing for months and it did not disappoint. The place was hoppin! After a short wait, we took our seats on their very pleasant patio. As with all good breweries, they featured numerous brews offered only at the brewery. The beers and the pizza were excellent. We took home a mini growler full of their brewery only IPA to enjoy in our air conditioned hotel room (it was 79 degrees at 10pm after all).